n the retail world, the purchase of pre-owned goods, as opposed to newly manufactured items, is referred to as resale shopping. This industry has consumers buying products that have been previously owned and encompasses thrift stores selling donated items, antique or vintage stores, flea markets, and even garage sales. It also includes consignment shops, both brick-and-mortar and online, which sell items on behalf of individuals.
In the consignment business, the item’s previous owner, or consignor, shares the profits (which can be cash or store credit) with the seller, or consignee. Unlike businesses that acquire wholesale inventory outright, if consignment goods are not sold, they are typically returned to the consignor or donated further down the value chain.
A study from resale platform ThreadUp.com forecasts that the US secondhand market will reach $73 billion in sales by 2028, compared to $28 billion in 2019, and reports that US consumers spent, on average, nearly half of their 2023 clothing budget on pre-owned items. The National Association of Resale & Thrift Shops estimates that there are more than 25,000 consignment, vintage, and nonprofit thrift shops in the United States. The segment is also expanding, especially for clothing, with research from ThreadUp in 2023 indicating that the resale apparel sector grew fifteen times faster than the newly manufactured apparel sector.
The combination of consumers looking for value and sustainability seems to be driving this movement. Secondhand shoppers, or self-described “thrifters,” can often find goods ranging from clothing and books to furniture and musical instruments for less than half the price of buying new. Brand name and designer items like shoes, purses, and other luxury goods commonly sell for a fraction of their new retail cost.
Beyond stretching a dollar, resale retail is the ultimate in recycling—or, strictly speaking, reusing. The environmental impact of new “fast fashion” is considerable; a United Nations study in 2018 estimated the industry is responsible for 2 to 8 percent of all carbon emissions, on par with the global aviation sector. It’s also the second-highest user of water worldwide and results in millions of tons of textile waste and microplastics ending up in landfills annually. Resale retail is a shift from disposable to durable production.
The Alaska consignment market mirrors the national structure with independent brick-and-mortar businesses, franchise stores, and online platforms. Most of these businesses carry inventory in specialty niches such as children’s wear, vintage clothing, or a particular style or brand such as designer or outdoor clothing.
Recreational gear and clothing is the specialty at The Hoarding Marmot, an independent seller in Midtown Anchorage with a large intake desk for consignments. “In many ways, outdoor gear comes to Alaska to die,” says owner Dana Drummond. “It’s expensive to ship goods up here, and they’re not likely to be shipped back out. When Alaskans are done with outdoor gear, it usually ends up in landfills.”
Before Drummond opened his store ten years ago, resale of outdoor gear was a challenge. “You had to go to one of a few annual swaps, post on a bulletin board, be part of an organization’s Listserv, or use Craigslist. It wasn’t easy. And for a lot of these, it took time or could turn into a shady or unsafe experience,” Drummond recalls. “Our shop is a place where you can outfit yourself for Alaska adventures with re-loved skis, climbing gear, and technical clothing.”
The art of running a consignment store is in the sourcing strategy, which involves building a diverse and appealing inventory that fits an ever-changing market.
“You find treasures at consignment stores that you can’t get anywhere else,” says Jaylene Colombie, owner of Second Run, a high-end consignment boutique in Downtown Anchorage. “Tourists that come into the store are delighted to find amazing fashion. And with no sales tax!”
Colombie, who previously worked with Nordstrom in positions ranging from buyer to stylist, bought the boutique six years ago when she moved back to Alaska. “I am especially connected to the store since I’ve shopped it since I was 16,” she says.
Most of Second Run’s inventory comes from individual sellers that have long-term relationships with the shop. “When any item is brought in for consignment, we do an analysis that considers the current and emerging fashion trends, color palette, what we already have on hand, and what will resonate with one of the three generations of shoppers we serve,” says Colombie. “At Second Run, we are quite selective with what we take on because our product mix is so important to who we are.”
Yet she is looking for changes all the time. Colombie says, “For instance, during COVID no one was going to galas or dressing up for the office, so folks wanted items like designer loungewear or vintage jeans—because there really is nothing like finding a pair of perfect-fitting vintage jeans!”
She credits her staff with having an eye for trends and beautiful looks while also being kind to consignors. Colombie says, “There are no ‘bad things’; even if it isn’t right for us at the time, the items carry memory and value for the potential sellers.”
While most Alaska’s consignment stores are independently owned and operated, there are franchises like Once Upon a Child, Play It Again Sports, and Plato’s Closet in the state. These stores, like many franchises, may provide franchisee-owners with reduced startup risk and cost, which becomes a quicker path to profitability by tapping into a proven business model and an established customer base. Franchise consignment stores may pay consignors a little less on average compared to an independent store, which might have more pricing flexibility, but franchises may reach a different group of buyers than independent stores.
Savvy thrifters can comparison shop, look for “unicorn” items, or sell their “clutter” with national consignment marketplace platforms, such as poshmark.com, depop.com, mercari.com, or vinted.com. Platforms like Poshmark combine social media and peer-to-peer selling with options for enhanced social engagement.
Kristina Gruno is a longtime Poshmark seller, going by @akkristina on the app. “I started on the platform when I had a financial crisis and needed to turn my unused clothes into cash for some unexpected bills. But I quickly realized this could be a business and a creative outlet,” she says. “Now I source unique, valuable items for resale from estate sales and am always looking for new treasures.”
Gruno credits her 150,000 passionate social media followers to her efforts to stand out with personal touches, such as small Alaska gifts or notes. “It is a little like Facebook, except your closet is your feed, and your posts and shares are like little commercials to your followers,” she says. “There are so many different ways to connect, from creating bundles to reduced shipping costs.”
The platform also offers paid marketing tools to accelerate sales called Promoted Closets and Posh Parties, which are daily, themed, real-time shopping events. Gruno says, “Not only do I have a resale fashion business but I’ve built a community of friends and serve as a thrifting ambassador for Alaska.”
Apart from Poshmark, online marketplaces eBay.com, Etsy.com, and Facebook Marketplace are powerhouses in terms of sheer numbers of sellers and buyers, with estimated global active customers of 133 million, 96 million, and 491 million respectively in 2024. These platforms tend to be more transactional and less focused on developing repeat buyers. Furthermore, some sellers may cross-list products on many different platforms for optimal customer reach.
Current US import policies related to tariffs will certainly affect clothing manufactured overseas, which may benefit local consignment stores, at least in the short term. Beyond the economics, a compelling case can be made for individuals wanting to have one-of-kind pieces that cannot be found in mainstream retail.
Whatever the reason, it is here and thriving in Alaska. As the resale community says, “Good things come to those who thrift!”
